Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a global network of cities cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this time-honored city is little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but say that their children do not want to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to learn these stories and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
